Building a Sustainable African Jewellery Brand: Lessons from Makila Nsika

In this episode of Meekono Fireside Chats, we spoke with Makila Nsika, a Congolese-born, London-based jewellery designer whose work brings together African heritage, ethical craftsmanship and contemporary design.

Makila shared her journey from studying French and African literature to working with artisans in Congo and developing a design practice rooted in culture, sustainability and storytelling.

The conversation explored the realities of working across borders, developing products with artisans, maintaining quality, pricing distinctive handmade products and building a brand for the right market.

Here are four key lessons for African jewellery designers, artisans and creative entrepreneurs.

Watch the full conversation below, then explore the key lessons from the episode.

1. Build Your Business Around a Clear Purpose

Makila’s journey into jewellery did not begin with a desire to make accessories alone. It began with a concern about the loss of traditional knowledge, craft skills and cultural symbols in Congo.

While visiting the country, she noticed that many traditional crafts and materials she remembered from childhood were becoming less visible. At the same time, some artisans relied on wood from increasingly threatened tree species.

This led her to experiment with palm nut kernels, a locally available food by-product strong enough to be carved and shaped into jewellery components.

Her experience shows that a strong creative business often begins with a clear reason for existing.

For sellers, that purpose may include:

• Preserving a traditional technique or cultural story
• Creating income opportunities for artisans
• Making better use of local materials
• Reducing production waste
• Developing contemporary uses for traditional skills

A meaningful purpose can guide decisions when production becomes difficult or progress is slower than expected. It also gives customers and buyers a stronger reason to connect with the products.

2. Product Development Requires Patience and Honest Communication

Working with artisans to develop a new product is rarely straightforward.

Makila was asking woodworkers to apply their skills to a much smaller and harder material than they traditionally used. This required new techniques, adapted tools and greater precision.

Some tools were not readily available, so artisans created their own. However, this sometimes resulted in differences in size, shape and finish.

One of the biggest challenges was communication. Artisans sometimes agreed to a request without explaining that they did not have the correct equipment or that a particular specification would be difficult to achieve.

This led to delays, inconsistent products and expensive shipments that did not meet expectations.

Strong collaboration requires both sides to communicate openly about:

• What is technically possible
• Which tools and materials are available
• How much time and money the work will require
• What level of precision can be achieved
• Where further training or testing may be needed

It is better to say that a specification is not currently possible than to agree and deliver a product that cannot be used.

Designers also need to understand the production environment before setting expectations. Visiting workshops, developing samples and agreeing on quality standards can prevent costly mistakes later.

3. Understand How Quality, Positioning and Price Work Together

Many African jewellery businesses face high production costs because they work in small quantities, rely on manual processes and must transport materials or products across borders.

At the same time, they may not have access to precious metals or gemstones that customers traditionally associate with high-value jewellery.

This can leave a business in a difficult middle position. The product is expensive to make, but customers may not immediately understand why it carries a higher price.

Makila’s response was to strengthen the design, quality and positioning of the product rather than trying to compete with inexpensive, mass-produced jewellery.

She invested in further design education and developed pieces intended for a higher-value market.

For sellers, higher pricing must be supported by the complete product experience. Distinctive design, consistent finishing, professional photography, thoughtful packaging, limited production and a clear story all help communicate value.

Pricing should also reflect the intended market.

A customer shopping for a low-cost souvenir has different expectations from someone looking for a collectible design piece. Sellers should understand where their customers shop, what comparable products cost and what buyers expect at that price point.

Do not automatically lower your price because a product is handmade in Africa. However, the product, presentation and positioning must support the value being communicated.

4. Test Your Products with the Right Customers

Selling directly at markets and exhibitions gave Makila valuable information about who was interested in her jewellery.

At general tourist markets, customers often looked for inexpensive products. In design-focused spaces, where visitors were more interested in art and craftsmanship, customers responded more positively to her work and accepted higher prices.

This helped her understand that the problem was not always the product or its price. Sometimes, the product was simply being shown to the wrong audience.

Market testing can help a business understand who stops to look, which pieces attract the most interest, what questions customers ask and where they hesitate.

It can also reveal which sales environments, price points and messages are most effective.

A product designed for a premium customer may struggle on a platform dominated by low-cost items. Similarly, a wholesale buyer will consider whether there is enough margin to resell the product profitably.

Positioning includes not only how much you charge, but also where the product is sold, what other brands surround it and how the story is presented.

Storytelling Must Be Supported by the Product

Storytelling is especially important for jewellery because buyers often want to understand the meaning behind a piece, its materials and the process used to make it.

Makila’s story connects her personal journey, Congolese heritage, artisan collaboration, environmental concerns and contemporary design approach.

However, she also emphasised that a piece must attract attention before the customer hears the full story.

The design, finish and presentation should communicate quality on their own. The story then gives the customer a deeper understanding of the object and why it matters.

For sellers, the story should explain where the product comes from, why the materials were chosen, which skills are involved and what inspired the design.

Packaging is also part of that story. A product positioned as an investment or collectible piece should arrive in packaging that reinforces its value.

Final Reflection

This Fireside Chat reminded us that sustainable African jewellery businesses are built through patience, purpose, continuous product development and a clear understanding of the intended market.

Working with artisans across different environments can involve challenges with tools, communication, quality control, transport and production costs. These challenges cannot always be solved immediately, but they can be managed through stronger relationships, realistic specifications and open communication.

Makila’s journey also demonstrates that creative entrepreneurs should not be afraid to develop a distinctive position. Rather than competing only on price, African designers can build value through original design, cultural knowledge, craftsmanship, responsible materials and thoughtful presentation.

At Meekono, conversations like these help us explore how sellers can strengthen their products, improve their wholesale readiness and build sustainable creative businesses while preserving the skills and stories that make their work distinctive.

We invite you to watch thefull Fireside Chat or listen to the episode onSpotify.